Insalata di fave e pecorino (bean salad with pecorino, pictured)
Fresh beans are loved all over Italy and are most often eaten raw directly from the pod. Here, they are lightly browned, peeled and put into a simple salad with such a slightly cheffy crispy cheese. Dressing does more than you need here, so keep the excess in the fridge for another day Preparation 10 minutes Cooking 15 minutes Servings 4 For dressing1 pinch of salt1½ tablespoon red wine vinegar2 tablespoons white wine vinegar1100 ml extra virgin olive oil For the salad4 large handfuls of fresh pod beans (approximately 320 g) 100-120 g pecorino, finely grated, at will 4 large handfuls of arugula leaves Salt and black pepper, to taste For the chips 50 g pecorino, finely grated 25 g parmesan, finely grated 25 g flour Make the dressing first. Put the salt in a bowl, add the vinegar and stir for a minute, to dissolve the salt. Whisk the oil and two tablespoons of water until the dressing is emulsified, then pour it into a clean bottle or jar and store it in the fridge for up to a month (it will separate, so shake well before using). Boil a large pan with salted water, simmer the beans for two to three minutes, then drain and refresh in ice water and peel the outer skins. To make the chips, mix the two cheeses and the flour in a bowl. Heat a few small non-stick pans and sprinkle a quarter of the cheese mixture all over the bottom of each pan. Bake for about a minute, until the bottom side starts to turn brown, then turn over and color on the other side for another minute. Transfer the chips to a board and then repeat with the rest of the cheese mixture. Season the beans with salt and pepper (pecorino is already quite salty, so relax with the salt), coat with a little vinaigrette to coat and then toss with grated pecorino to taste – you want the beans to be well coated with both dressing and the cheese. Spread the bean mixture in one layer in the center of four plates. Season with salt and pepper and lightly coat the arugula, stack on the beans and serve each portion with a crispy cheese.
Nettle risotto
The nettle risotto by Giorgio Locatelli If you can not get nettles, which have the added advantage of being free, use young spinach instead. In Lombardy, we probably love snails more than the French, and I would like to add some to this risotto at the end. the dish works just as well without them, but they add a welcome, contrasting texture. If you want to try them, fry 30 drained canned snails (look for them in French and Italian delicacies or online) in a few tablespoons of hot olive oil until they are almost crispy on the outside, mix in a pinch each of the squid. and sprinkle over the risotto as soon as it is cooked. Preparation 10 minutes Cooking 25 minutes Servings 6 2 large handfuls of young nettle leaves (plus a few extra for frying for garnish – optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2½ liters of good chicken broth 50 g butter 1 onion cleaned and finely chopped To finish 75 g of cold butter, cut into small cubes 100 g of finely grated parmesan Boil the nettles in boiling salted water for 30 seconds, drain them, put them in a food processor and puree them. add a little water if the mixture is not loose. Bring the broth to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Melt the butter in a heavy-duty pan, add the onion and sweat gently, stirring, for about five minutes, until softened but not colored. Add the rice, mix it all around to spread it with butter and “toast” the grains, then add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine is completely evaporated and the onions and rice are dry. Add a spoonful of hot broth and stir and grate the rice. When the broth is almost evaporated, add another ladle and repeat, adding another broth and stirring for 10 minutes. Stir in the nettle puree, bring the risotto back to the temperature, then add another tablespoon of broth and repeat as before, stirring and adding more broth, for another five to six minutes, until the grains are soft but still al dente. The risotto should not be too fluffy, otherwise it will become sloppy when you add the butter and cheese later. Once the rice is ready, lower the heat and let it rest for a minute. Now for the mandekatura (AKA, the final mix): away from the heat, beat the butter hard, followed by the parmesan, shaking the pan vigorously as you do it. Season to taste and serve with a few fried nettle leaves, if desired.
Giorgio Locatelli is the chef / patron of Locanda Locatelli, London W1, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. An updated version of his book, Made in Italy, is being reprinted by the 4th Estate on June 9, for £ 35. To order a copy for, 30.45, go to guardianbookshop.com
