It has never been the perfect time to open a restaurant. The margins were always thin. The cost of food is high these days and the cost of fuel is skyrocketing. Fly into the impact of a pandemic and a tourism industry that has not yet recovered and the operation of a restaurant seems more dangerous than ever. However, if you think opening and closing restaurants is one way to measure the temperature of the economy, then Celeste Mah and Ross Larkin are getting ready to do something that looks like an optimistic sign for the things to come. Mah, who became Canada’s top pastry chef in 2019, and Larkin, who won the Top Chef Canada competition while he was a kitchen chef at Raymonds in St. Louis. John’s, bring the food philosophy they developed to Raymonds, but will approach the service in a new way. The Portage, which the couple hopes to open by mid-June, is located at 128 Water Street, across from Raymonds, which has been closed since January 2021. The couple made pop-ups and went out to the Merchant Tavern and work with them. partners behind Raymonds to open Portage. With the decoration in place, the spot looks different from his previous lives. “We were told that this building was like studio 54 in St. Louis. “John’s”, said Mah, referring to the legendary Club Max nightclub with a disco, which was popular in the early 80’s. “People got dressed and brought the glamor. There was a spiral staircase. Then there were two or three different strip clubs, then a boutique hotel. Now it will be our restaurant. We want to feel comfortable with these green tiles, wooden bars and soft lakes. of light, “said Mach.
Same quality, different approach
While the quality and caliber of the food will be similar to Raymonds, the dishes themselves will be served in a family style and the restaurant will have a relaxed, calm feel. Portage is located at 128 Water St. – just across from Raymonds. (Submitted by Rodrigo Iniguez) “No tablecloths. Less formal.” said Larkin. “The menu will be organized a little differently. We divide it into categories such as snacks, seafood, protein, vegetables. You can order family-type dishes, which will be more important portions, or order them as side dishes.” The idea is to have a social experience as much as a good meal. “We like to eat, share, drink and enjoy conversations with our friends. That’s the approach,” Larkin said.
Local, local, local
Mah and Larkin have always given priority to purchases from local farmers and suppliers and that the food philosophy will accompany them to Portage. “We will highlight local products and products as much as we can. We will have a plate of beets on the menu made in the style of Turkish eggs, served with brown chili butter, whipped cream ricotta and local greens,” said Mach. Inspired by a floral sculpture they spotted on a business trip to Portland, Larkin and Mach commissioned this dried floral sculpture for their new restaurant. (Submitted by Rodrigo Iniguez) “We are excited to be working with food producers like Seed to Spoon and showcasing our local produce. There are some fantastic farmers here.” The new, smaller space will give Larkin and Mah more freedom to buy and support local farms. “When I was the chef at Raymonds, I would call someone and say, ‘Hi, can I have X of this product?’ And if they could not offer enough for the menu, I could not buy it,” he said. “At Portage, I will have the freedom to change the menu often and buy small quantities. I will be able to delete things from the menu if we are out. This will make me feel good.”
Nothing should be lost
It is difficult to talk about a new restaurant without mentioning the rising cost of food and food security concerns in the countryside. Customizing the menu and introducing new ideas to customers is part of the plan. “Things like oil and packaged containers have skyrocketed in prices,” Larkin said. “It is difficult and the prices are generally much higher. We try to overcome it by using all the parts of the product or protein.” Mach points out that they have always been good at it. “We always tried to waste as little as possible. I make sugars from vegetable peels. Ross uses every part of the fish, not just the pieces of fish. The cheeks are served and the bones are turned into broth. We are all for that,” he said. “We want customers to eat on the go, to try new things. We want to make our menus accessible and creative so that people can enjoy new foods – that’s our big challenge.”
Staff care
Restaurants are known for their brutal hours: many days, late at night. Balance and avoid exhaustion will be one of the features of Portage. This means a manageable schedule for staff. Larkin explains. “The days of eating lunch in a cage with milk in an alley are over,” Larkin said. “We want the people who work with us to enjoy a family meal together every day. We plan to be open from Thursday to Monday for happy hour and dinner. This gives us time to prepare and gives our staff a balance between work and personal life. “ Larkin said time for home and family will be important for everyone. “I have a life. Other people have it too. We do not want to work people 12 to 16 hours when we know we can accomplish great things on a more regular schedule,” he said.
Desserts and guest care
Mah desserts are known for their balancing properties such as precision and polishing with wild ingenuity. She likes to surprise her guests and regularly uses local livestock ingredients such as black currant leaves, tea berries and flowers. I want people to walk in the door of Portage and feel cared for. Let us take care of you.- Celeste Mah “I like to use savory ingredients in pastries. I like to include small twists in my desserts, but lately, I’m really into the comfort of rice pudding, so I hope to create a rice pudding with rhubarb,” he said. That’s a test last week, when Ross’s son loved it. I was saying, ‘Well, that’s on the menu.’ Once Portage is installed, both Mah and Larkin hope to host an occasional Sunday Superette. “We wish we could sell desserts to take home, [as well as] “jams and pickles,” he said. “During the pandemic, you could take home Merchant meal kits with wine. I would love to offer this service to customers,” he said. “Basically, I want people to come in the doorway of Portage and feel cared for. Let us care for you.” Read more from CBC Newfoundland and Labrador
